Bilbao snuck up on us. We were expecting the Guggenheim and not much else. What we got was one of the most walkable, food-obsessed, genuinely charming cities in Europe.


The Guggenheim building is extraordinary from every angle — Gehry’s titanium panels catch the light differently all day. The Jeff Koons Puppy out front might be the most photographed thing in the Basque Country.



The old town (Casco Viejo) is compact and lively. The pintxos bars open late and stay busy later.